Fujitsu T5010 - utilize screen from Tablet-PC

[Ertew]

Polska wersja językowa - proszę kliknąć tutaj: http://forum.elportal.pl/viewtopic.php?t=13842 lub http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3338654.html
(Polish language version - please click above links)

My tablet are made of T5010 screen, Pro Micro (Atmega32U4 + arduino bootloader) as WaxBee and TSUMv59 as LVDS converter.
Case: reused screen case and some parts made of plywood.
LCD: HV133WX1-100,
Digitizer: SU5E-13W01AS-01X.
Final photos comes here. More technical info at next posts.

Top of my tablet:


Side view:


Bottom - how it should looks like:


Bottom - how it actually looks:


Note the difference. TSUMv59 consumes a lot of energy and produce a lot of heat. Because of that I need to add ventilation slot. I'm not happy with that, but actually cannot do it better  


First test - paint. Works OK.
I'm not an artist, but sketching will be a lot easier now.

Second test, Gimp. Pressure works well, just need to enable it.



Why I chose this video converter instead of other types: Because when I not using tablet I can reuse it as media player. Just rotate 180 deg and put upright.



Cost summary:
70 PLN for complete screen  Grin
100 PLN for pen  Angry
15 PLN for shipping inside Poland.
Total: 185 PLN ~ 60$ ~ 45€ for parts from Poland.

16$ TSUMv59 converter,
3$ Pro Micro,
3$ fake 2m HDMI cable (works perfect with this converter and with DVI screen. Doesn't work with any regular TV),
2$ 2m USB cable,
Total: 24$ for parts from china.


Two attachments and link to not mine video, that I posted here before: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Dd3-t7vkgU

[thatcomicsguy]

Can you tell us about the LCD controller board are you using, (who makes it, where did you get it, part number, how did you program it, etc.)?

Cheers!

[Ertew]

Part 1 - the screen

After good experience from my Tablet-PC, I started looking for something more powerful for better drawings. Because I not like to play with mechanical part and have limited money, there's only one options: buy a screen from TabletPC and connect it to my computer.
Quick research and I found and buy screen from Fujitsu (yep, same brand) T5010 laptop/tablet. Seller was marked as recycling company and probably sell parts from broken tablets as spare parts instead of utilizing them. But that's very good for me because complete screen was quite cheap. Also seller guarantee me that whole display have few scratches but LCD and digitizer are tested and 100% working.

I also bought used stylus from the same seller.
Costs:
70 PLN for complete screen  
100 PLN for pen  
15 PLN for shipping inside Poland.
Total: 185 PLN ~ 60$ ~ 45€

Lets look inside.



It's easy to find datasheet for HV133WX1-100 LCD panel. The Wacom digitizer is SU5E-13W01AS-01X that works as ISDv4 serial unit.
Screen comes with assfucking connector, but fortunately I also received complete screen cables. One problem less.


I also got working USB webcam, broken fingerprint sensor, buttons&LEDs that should working, touch sensor that i can't test and 4 antennas (WiFi, Bluetooth, maybe GSM). Not bad for that price.


It's also easy to disassemble mobo connectors and solder cable's terminals to almost anything. I found strange HDD adapter from broken laptop (note, it's 2mm pitch) and solder wires directly into it. So far do good.


Part 2 - the LVDS converter(s)

Next I tested my screen with two different LVDS boards.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-New-MT6820-GOLD-A7-LVDS-LCD-driver-board-5V-universal-support-8-42-inch/32475958834.html
Simply and cheap VGA -> LVDS translator for about 6$. It can be programmed via jumpers and should works nicely (approved 5 weeks later when second adapter comes).
Unfortunately I made a short circuit and broke it. Fortunately LCD survived this.
Pros:

• nice, small board
• energy efficient chip
• relatively fast response time
• always can work with native resolution

Cons:

• analog input only,
• can upscale image to bigger LCD but cannot downscale HD image to smaller LCD,
• menu is usable only when board have valid input signal,
• always comes with chinese menu language (can be changed)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/VST29-V59-HDTV-driver-board-TV-PC-AV-HDMI-USB-fit-8-9-42-inch-LCD/1305921741.html
Nice and fancy but too complex adapter for about 20$. Firmware can be upgraded via almost any USB stick, just copy specific file, plug and wait few seconds. Each file is set for different output resolution, almost any standard is supported.
These type of adapters contain TSUMv29 (USB only for firmware), TSUMv39 (USB for playing music, photos and firmware) or TSUMv59 (can play movies from USB stick too).
Pros:

• a lot of video inputs,
• remote control,
• audio amplifier,
• teletext in some versions,
• can upscale and downscale image, ie. FHD image -> 800x600 screen,
• can play movies without computer

Cons:

• chip overheats,
• software works much slower,
• does not accept some input resolutions like 1024x600 and have problems with my 1280x800 resolution,
• cable/antenna tuner does not work in my version,
• always comes with chinese menu language (can be changed)

Edit:
https://sites.google.com/site/lcd4hobby/4-lcd-tft-screen-tester
- nice site with manuals for controller boards similar to models that I using.

[Ertew]

UPDATE

After about a year  I found free time to make few small steps forward. First 3D modeling for the case.
I wish to 3D print the case. Full black (or full white) plastic, screwed to the screen and create nice angle for the screen. But after few measurement I finished with few plywood parts screwed together.

Here are my design:


LVDS converter and WaxBee converter will be hidden under the screen and create useful angle.
The case will also have a vertical standing option. This allow me to use just TSUMv59 board as a portable screen for PC, laptop, console, camera or watching movies (USB input and single 10-15V supply).

Just need to make decision. Include 12V lithium battery or make portable power bank.

[akromatic]

Hi, i got the same tablet screen with wacom digitizer. i'd like to build a cintiq tablet with it.

how did you wire and connect the digitizer to the PC?

[Ertew]

Here are pinout for the digitizer (based on bongofish wiki page).
In facts, You need only 4 cables. Extra pin marked LED change state when digitizer detect pen. Nice gadget but not important.

Pin 1 is on the middle of the board, pin 14 on the edge. You may see small white numbers 1 and 14 right next to pins.
It's the 'industrial'* digitizer with 3.3V serial interface and ISDv4 protocol.


And it's my test cable, compatible with breakout board. You may see this on first post.
Nothing special, just enough for the first test. I decided to run and test all electronic, then disassembly it and start building from mechanical case.

[Ertew]

Part 3a - mechanical things

I have complete screen case.
WaxBee and LVDS converter won't fit here. Thus I add extra space made of plywood.
I chose TSUMv59 (very nice thing) and Pro Micro (cheaper than Teensy and not much harder to use) and made case designed for them.

Two parts of plywood + rubber feet:


Position of both converters:


All extra parts together (wrong angle between plywood parts):


All together:


And display on right angle:

Looks like ready to use.

[Ertew]

Sorry about long delay. I need to sell one of my Pro Micros to my friend (ASAP project, even 24h waiting for original board will ruin it). I think that I still have second one, but it's disappear  so extra 40 days of waiting.
One problem solved, few next appear.


Part 3b - finishing mechanical assembly
First, hole to pass cables.


Next, quick check if LCD and converter still working. Beware, backlight driver (build-in) need something about 12V.

Yep, it's working. Changing language to english are simply, just need to discover pinout for keypad. Backlight driver working when applied +12V (LED sypply) and +3.3V (driver supply) for whole LCD.
Todo:
- wire laptop buttons to LVDS converter (maybe IR receiver too),
- backlight dimming.

Part 4 - WaxBee converter
I not thrust SMT connectors, especially micro USB. First I decided to solder short wires between board and USB-B socket (call it printer-type USB).

But I lost half day and two 22 ohm resistors on PCB without positive effect. Looks like signal from Atmega32U4 need to past through micro-USB connector, then I can cut cable and pass signal through USB-B adapter and next cable. I will test this solution later. Today I will stay with delicate micro USB socket.

Actually WaxBee have nice place next to LVDS converter. Plywood have few gaps designed to fix USB-B board.

Wiring digitizer.

I have finished small PCB which I used to earlier tests. I should remove it, but 3.3V LDO fits here nicely.
I only use 3 wires: VCC, GND and RX because digitizer should work without any extra command.
This decision was big mistake. Digitizer can run without commands but cannot run with random commands - RX pin floating. As a result, WaxBee perfectly read X/Y position but cannot read buttons and pressure 
Finding cause of the problem was rather funny. As soon as I connect RX pin to VCC, problems disappear. But later I decide to play fair and connect digitizer RX to WaxBee TX via extra 1k resistor (standard 10k resistor are build-in on digitizer board).

Wacom template.
I use standard template, Penenabled ISDV4 to Intuos2 12x18
For my digitizer, max X = 28811, max Y = 18083. Digitizer active area are bigger than LCD active area. I need to trim that, min values too, but that will be done later.

Todo:
- trim min/max for coordinates for digitizer,
- connect all parts at once and test jetter,
- clean front glass on both sides.

[Ertew]

<censored /> yeah! I finally got microUSB plug. Attached it to Pro Micro and everything working well. So, back to durable USB socket reinforced with plywood.



Let's finish this project (and start another).
All pieces on back of my screen. Removed white connector from LCD/LVDS cable. Added small prototype PCB for buttons and LEDs. Board for digitizer glued to the plywood.


Pro micro stick behind USB connector. All pieces connected. Extra space will be utilized by potentiometer (attached to one of ADC inputs) as soon as I discover how to recompile WaxBee firmware with adding extra piece of code (the idea: analog -> PWM -> backlight dimming).


And ZOOM view.



Because I have spare output from digitizer (high when detect pen) and doesn't have any driver for NUM/Caps/Scroll/Lock LEDs I decided to wire them together 



Everything tested and working OK. No jitter, as expected. Only small hysteresis, something about 1px.
Screen resolution: 1280 x 800px. Digitizer resolution between 1 and 2 points per pixel.

And that's all. Final photos will be posted at first post of this topic. Any comments are welcome.

[TheGamer675]

Hello Ertew
I have purchased one of those pro micro clones for the purpose of making USB on my Wacom digitizer (SU-025-C02) and I would want to know if you know how to flash the pro micro with Waxbee. Could you tell me how to flash waxbee on the pro micro? Thank You!

[Ertew]

Hello.
Thanks to write anything in my topic. This sends me email notification that You need a help.
However this topic is all about my build and I don't want to mess here. For help about burning firmware into AtMega32u4 please read this topic and ask here if You have any questions: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2556.msg21860