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Author Topic: Fujitsu T5010 - utilize screen from Tablet-PC  (Read 2250 times)
Ertew
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« on: February 27, 2016, 11:02:00 PM »

Polska wersja językowa - proszę kliknąć tutaj: http://forum.elportal.pl/viewtopic.php?t=13842 lub http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3338654.html
(Polish language version - please click above links)


My tablet are made of T5010 screen, Pro Micro (Atmega32U4 + arduino bootloader) as WaxBee and TSUMv59 as LVDS converter.
Case: reused screen case and some parts made of plywood.
LCD: HV133WX1-100,
Digitizer: SU5E-13W01AS-01X.
Final photos comes here. More technical info at next posts.

Top of my tablet:

* IMG_5069.JPG (243.2 KB. 992x770 - viewed 29 times.)

* IMG_5070.JPG (214.22 KB. 1049x826 - viewed 31 times.)


Side view:

* IMG_5071.JPG (113.74 KB. 970x484 - viewed 31 times.)

* IMG_5072.JPG (433.49 KB. 1367x1192 - viewed 33 times.)


Bottom - how it should looks like:

* IMG_5063.JPG (395.73 KB. 1599x1001 - viewed 32 times.)


Bottom - how it actually looks:

* IMG_5064.JPG (290.67 KB. 1135x833 - viewed 30 times.)

* IMG_5065.JPG (211.25 KB. 1245x521 - viewed 34 times.)

* IMG_5066.JPG (88.62 KB. 357x756 - viewed 30 times.)


Note the difference. TSUMv59 consumes a lot of energy and produce a lot of heat. Because of that I need to add ventilation slot. I'm not happy with that, but actually cannot do it better  Sad


First test - paint. Works OK.
I'm not an artist, but sketching will be a lot easier now.

* IMG_5081.JPG (381.64 KB. 1600x1200 - viewed 38 times.)


Second test, Gimp. Pressure works well, just need to enable it.

* IMG_5074.JPG (463.36 KB. 1600x1200 - viewed 32 times.)

* teblet.png (132.01 KB. 760x610 - viewed 27 times.)



Why I chose this video converter instead of other types: Because when I not using tablet I can reuse it as media player. Just rotate 180 deg and put upright.

* IMG_5078.JPG (403.44 KB. 1600x1200 - viewed 34 times.)

* IMG_5079.JPG (427.44 KB. 1600x1200 - viewed 32 times.)



Cost summary:
70 PLN for complete screen  Grin
100 PLN for pen  Angry
15 PLN for shipping inside Poland.
Total: 185 PLN ~ 60$ ~ 45€ for parts from Poland.

16$ TSUMv59 converter,
3$ Pro Micro,
3$ fake 2m HDMI cable (works perfect with this converter and with DVI screen. Doesn't work with any regular TV),
2$ 2m USB cable,
Total: 24$ for parts from china.



Two attachments and link to not mine video, that I posted here before:

* IMG_3871.JPG (417.34 KB. 1313x985 - viewed 259 times.)

* IMG_3875.JPG (310.63 KB. 1313x985 - viewed 237 times.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Dd3-t7vkgU

« Last Edit: May 09, 2017, 10:16:42 PM by Ertew » Logged

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thatcomicsguy
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« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2016, 04:10:48 AM »

Can you tell us about the LCD controller board are you using, (who makes it, where did you get it, part number, how did you program it, etc.)?

Cheers!


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Ertew
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2016, 09:43:02 PM »

Part 1 - the screen

After good experience from my Tablet-PC, I started looking for something more powerful for better drawings. Because I not like to play with mechanical part and have limited money, there's only one options: buy a screen from TabletPC and connect it to my computer.
Quick research and I found and buy screen from Fujitsu (yep, same brand) T5010 laptop/tablet. Seller was marked as recycling company and probably sell parts from broken tablets as spare parts instead of utilizing them. But that's very good for me because complete screen was quite cheap. Also seller guarantee me that whole display have few scratches but LCD and digitizer are tested and 100% working.

* IMG_3856.JPG (347.86 KB. 1230x1059 - viewed 168 times.)

* IMG_3854.JPG (291.23 KB. 1078x859 - viewed 160 times.)

I also bought used stylus from the same seller.
Costs:
70 PLN for complete screen  Grin
100 PLN for pen  Angry
15 PLN for shipping inside Poland.
Total: 185 PLN ~ 60$ ~ 45€

Lets look inside.

* IMG_3858.JPG (257.5 KB. 1162x1044 - viewed 142 times.)

* IMG_3863.JPG (421.07 KB. 1369x1031 - viewed 155 times.)


* IMG_3864.JPG (462.17 KB. 1459x1094 - viewed 138 times.)

* IMG_3865.JPG (411.1 KB. 1459x1094 - viewed 150 times.)


* IMG_3866.JPG (391.99 KB. 1313x985 - viewed 161 times.)

* IMG_3874.JPG (479.1 KB. 1459x1094 - viewed 140 times.)

It's easy to find datasheet for HV133WX1-100 LCD panel. The Wacom digitizer is SU5E-13W01AS-01X that works as ISDv4 serial unit.
Screen comes with assfucking connector, but fortunately I also received complete screen cables. One problem less.

* IMG_3862.JPG (441.75 KB. 1459x1094 - viewed 169 times.)

* IMG_3861.JPG (380.3 KB. 1459x1094 - viewed 145 times.)


* IMG_3860.JPG (356.92 KB. 1313x985 - viewed 152 times.)

* IMG_3859.JPG (395.05 KB. 1459x1094 - viewed 136 times.)

I also got working USB webcam, broken fingerprint sensor, buttons&LEDs that should working, touch sensor that i can't test and 4 antennas (WiFi, Bluetooth, maybe GSM). Not bad for that price.


* IMG_3917.JPG (422.41 KB. 1080x810 - viewed 160 times.)

It's also easy to disassemble mobo connectors and solder cable's terminals to almost anything. I found strange HDD adapter from broken laptop (note, it's 2mm pitch) and solder wires directly into it. So far do good.


Part 2 - the LVDS converter(s)

Next I tested my screen with two different LVDS boards.

* IMG_3918.JPG (445.56 KB. 1200x900 - viewed 178 times.)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-New-MT6820-GOLD-A7-LVDS-LCD-driver-board-5V-universal-support-8-42-inch/32475958834.html
Simply and cheap VGA -> LVDS translator for about 6$. It can be programmed via jumpers and should works nicely (approved 5 weeks later when second adapter comes).
Unfortunately I made a short circuit and broke it. Fortunately LCD survived this.
Pros:
  • nice, small board
  • energy efficient chip
  • relatively fast response time
  • always can work with native resolution

Cons:
  • analog input only,
  • can upscale image to bigger LCD but cannot downscale HD image to smaller LCD,
  • menu is usable only when board have valid input signal,
  • always comes with chinese menu language (can be changed)



* IMG_3916.JPG (482.33 KB. 1200x900 - viewed 178 times.)

* IMG_3869.JPG (440.45 KB. 1313x985 - viewed 177 times.)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/VST29-V59-HDTV-driver-board-TV-PC-AV-HDMI-USB-fit-8-9-42-inch-LCD/1305921741.html
Nice and fancy but too complex adapter for about 20$. Firmware can be upgraded via almost any USB stick, just copy specific file, plug and wait few seconds. Each file is set for different output resolution, almost any standard is supported.
These type of adapters contain TSUMv29 (USB only for firmware), TSUMv39 (USB for playing music, photos and firmware) or TSUMv59 (can play movies from USB stick too).
Pros:
  • a lot of video inputs,
  • remote control,
  • audio amplifier,
  • teletext in some versions,
  • can upscale and downscale image, ie. FHD image -> 800x600 screen,
  • can play movies without computer

Cons:
  • chip overheats,
  • software works much slower,
  • does not accept some input resolutions like 1024x600 and have problems with my 1280x800 resolution,
  • cable/antenna tuner does not work in my version,
  • always comes with chinese menu language (can be changed)


Edit:
https://sites.google.com/site/lcd4hobby/4-lcd-tft-screen-tester
- nice site with manuals for controller boards similar to models that I using.

« Last Edit: March 22, 2016, 10:29:35 PM by Ertew » Logged

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Ertew
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« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2017, 11:15:29 PM »

UPDATE

After about a year  Shocked I found free time to make few small steps forward. First 3D modeling for the case.
I wish to 3D print the case. Full black (or full white) plastic, screwed to the screen and create nice angle for the screen. But after few measurement I finished with few plywood parts screwed together.

Here are my design:

* 1.png (107.56 KB. 860x467 - viewed 59 times.)


* 2.png (129.32 KB. 1019x467 - viewed 66 times.)

LVDS converter and WaxBee converter will be hidden under the screen and create useful angle.
The case will also have a vertical standing option. This allow me to use just TSUMv59 board as a portable screen for PC, laptop, console, camera or watching movies (USB input and single 10-15V supply).

* 3.png (40.15 KB. 315x651 - viewed 65 times.)

Just need to make decision. Include 12V lithium battery or make portable power bank.

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akromatic
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2017, 07:49:44 AM »

Hi, i got the same tablet screen with wacom digitizer. i'd like to build a cintiq tablet with it.

how did you wire and connect the digitizer to the PC?
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Ertew
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« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2017, 02:14:27 PM »

Here are pinout for the digitizer (based on bongofish wiki page).
In facts, You need only 4 cables. Extra pin marked LED change state when digitizer detect pen. Nice gadget but not important.

* IMG_4729.JPG (369.27 KB. 1313x1199 - viewed 73 times.)

Pin 1 is on the middle of the board, pin 14 on the edge. You may see small white numbers 1 and 14 right next to pins.
It's the 'industrial'* digitizer with 3.3V serial interface and ISDv4 protocol.


* IMG_4730.JPG (200.38 KB. 1263x791 - viewed 65 times.)

And it's my test cable, compatible with breakout board. You may see this on first post.
Nothing special, just enough for the first test. I decided to run and test all electronic, then disassembly it and start building from mechanical case.

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Ertew
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« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2017, 02:36:03 PM »

Part 3a - mechanical things

I have complete screen case.
WaxBee and LVDS converter won't fit here. Thus I add extra space made of plywood.
I chose TSUMv59 (very nice thing) and Pro Micro (cheaper than Teensy and not much harder to use) and made case designed for them.

Two parts of plywood + rubber feet:

* IMG_4701.JPG (425.23 KB. 1528x739 - viewed 57 times.)

* IMG_4702.JPG (403.73 KB. 1526x710 - viewed 45 times.)


Position of both converters:

* IMG_4703.JPG (249.64 KB. 1600x487 - viewed 60 times.)


All extra parts together (wrong angle between plywood parts):

* IMG_4704.JPG (284.84 KB. 1600x581 - viewed 56 times.)


All together:

* IMG_4705.JPG (271.97 KB. 1417x696 - viewed 61 times.)

* IMG_4706.JPG (223.23 KB. 1547x528 - viewed 51 times.)


And display on right angle:

* IMG_4707.JPG (227.34 KB. 1524x637 - viewed 70 times.)

Looks like ready to use.

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Ertew
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« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2017, 09:45:23 PM »

Sorry about long delay. I need to sell one of my Pro Micros to my friend (ASAP project, even 24h waiting for original board will ruin it). I think that I still have second one, but it's disappear  Angry so extra 40 days of waiting.
One problem solved, few next appear.


Part 3b - finishing mechanical assembly
First, hole to pass cables.

* IMG_5042.JPG (484.59 KB. 1467x947 - viewed 29 times.)

* IMG_5043.JPG (336.25 KB. 1535x673 - viewed 31 times.)

* IMG_5044.JPG (457.8 KB. 1413x1022 - viewed 27 times.)

* IMG_5045.JPG (469.34 KB. 1338x1102 - viewed 32 times.)


Next, quick check if LCD and converter still working. Beware, backlight driver (build-in) need something about 12V.

* IMG_5046.JPG (436.55 KB. 1349x743 - viewed 30 times.)

* IMG_5047.JPG (146.32 KB. 800x565 - viewed 30 times.)

* IMG_5049.JPG (184 KB. 800x600 - viewed 30 times.)

* IMG_5050.JPG (168.9 KB. 800x595 - viewed 30 times.)

Yep, it's working. Changing language to english are simply, just need to discover pinout for keypad. Backlight driver working when applied +12V (LED sypply) and +3.3V (driver supply) for whole LCD.
Todo:
- wire laptop buttons to LVDS converter (maybe IR receiver too),
- backlight dimming.

Part 4 - WaxBee converter
I not thrust SMT connectors, especially micro USB. First I decided to solder short wires between board and USB-B socket (call it printer-type USB).

* USB-05.jpg (45.74 KB. 619x621 - viewed 33 times.)

But I lost half day and two 22 ohm resistors on PCB without positive effect. Looks like signal from Atmega32U4 need to past through micro-USB connector, then I can cut cable and pass signal through USB-B adapter and next cable. I will test this solution later. Today I will stay with delicate micro USB socket.

* IMG_5041.JPG (466.03 KB. 1600x956 - viewed 31 times.)

Actually WaxBee have nice place next to LVDS converter. Plywood have few gaps designed to fix USB-B board.

Wiring digitizer.

* IMG_5051.JPG (468.85 KB. 1438x785 - viewed 34 times.)

I have finished small PCB which I used to earlier tests. I should remove it, but 3.3V LDO fits here nicely.
I only use 3 wires: VCC, GND and RX because digitizer should work without any extra command.
This decision was big mistake. Digitizer can run without commands but cannot run with random commands - RX pin floating. As a result, WaxBee perfectly read X/Y position but cannot read buttons and pressure  Angry
Finding cause of the problem was rather funny. As soon as I connect RX pin to VCC, problems disappear. But later I decide to play fair and connect digitizer RX to WaxBee TX via extra 1k resistor (standard 10k resistor are build-in on digitizer board).

Wacom template.
I use standard template, Penenabled ISDV4 to Intuos2 12x18
For my digitizer, max X = 28811, max Y = 18083. Digitizer active area are bigger than LCD active area. I need to trim that, min values too, but that will be done later.

Todo:
- trim min/max for coordinates for digitizer,
- connect all parts at once and test jetter,
- clean front glass on both sides.

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Ertew
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« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2017, 09:50:12 PM »

<censored /> yeah! I finally got microUSB plug. Attached it to Pro Micro and everything working well. So, back to durable USB socket reinforced with plywood.

* IMG_5054.JPG (475.22 KB. 1456x1200 - viewed 29 times.)

* IMG_5055.JPG (421.81 KB. 1431x1027 - viewed 30 times.)

* IMG_5056.JPG (407.18 KB. 1600x1200 - viewed 29 times.)

* IMG_5059.JPG (434.12 KB. 1452x1072 - viewed 28 times.)



Let's finish this project (and start another).
All pieces on back of my screen. Removed white connector from LCD/LVDS cable. Added small prototype PCB for buttons and LEDs. Board for digitizer glued to the plywood.

* IMG_5060.JPG (456.44 KB. 1280x960 - viewed 29 times.)


Pro micro stick behind USB connector. All pieces connected. Extra space will be utilized by potentiometer (attached to one of ADC inputs) as soon as I discover how to recompile WaxBee firmware with adding extra piece of code (the idea: analog -> PWM -> backlight dimming).

* IMG_5061.JPG (458.22 KB. 1280x960 - viewed 26 times.)


And ZOOM view.

* IMG_5062.JPG (481.5 KB. 1600x1058 - viewed 30 times.)



Because I have spare output from digitizer (high when detect pen) and doesn't have any driver for NUM/Caps/Scroll/Lock LEDs I decided to wire them together  Grin

* IMG_5075.JPG (322.49 KB. 1600x1052 - viewed 34 times.)

* IMG_5076.JPG (357.74 KB. 1600x991 - viewed 31 times.)



Everything tested and working OK. No jitter, as expected. Only small hysteresis, something about 1px.
Screen resolution: 1280 x 800px. Digitizer resolution between 1 and 2 points per pixel.

And that's all. Final photos will be posted at first post of this topic. Any comments are welcome.

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