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Question: Laptop screen to wacom cintiq screen
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Author Topic: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing  (Read 1673 times)
Ertew
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« Reply #30 on: June 17, 2017, 06:43:47 PM »

Real aluminium tape may cause short circuit and destroy Wacom. I prefer to use different type of tape especially "duck tape" - plastic thing but reinforced.

Front cover have two aspects. First is base material. Glass may be fragile but 2mm layer should be enough for drawing. Plexi are elastic and may bend enough to put pressure to LCD surface but it's easier to cut. 3mm may be enough but I'm not sure. Second thing are just top layer. This layer determines scratch resistance, dirt resistance and friction for pen.
I recommend You to use glass and put protective sticker on top - to reduce pen friction. But again I have only experience based on two tablet-PC screens and few things that I try to put on top of it to cover deep scratches. Based on my experience, scratched surface of tablet screen are the best thing I can found. Bare glass and few plastic things have much higher friction than original tablet surface. So You need to test it all on Your own.
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axel9546
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« Reply #31 on: June 17, 2017, 07:25:38 PM »

Real aluminium tape may cause short circuit and destroy Wacom. I prefer to use different type of tape especially "duck tape" - plastic thing but reinforced.

Front cover have two aspects. First is base material. Glass may be fragile but 2mm layer should be enough for drawing. Plexi are elastic and may bend enough to put pressure to LCD surface but it's easier to cut. 3mm may be enough but I'm not sure. Second thing are just top layer. This layer determines scratch resistance, dirt resistance and friction for pen.
I recommend You to use glass and put protective sticker on top - to reduce pen friction. But again I have only experience based on two tablet-PC screens and few things that I try to put on top of it to cover deep scratches. Based on my experience, scratched surface of tablet screen are the best thing I can found. Bare glass and few plastic things have much higher friction than original tablet surface. So You need to test it all on Your own.
Okay
About the alluminium tape .. Which One i have to buy or wich tape is the best to take the screen hold on securely in the wacom board and get no interferenze?
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DaBotz
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« Reply #32 on: June 18, 2017, 08:15:28 PM »

Aluminium (or copper) tape, is used most often to  try and build some RF shielding in LCD-Over-Intuos builds, more than anything else. In that use, anyway, it is often a good idea to use it to enclose some non-conductive plastic bag (or some construction akin to it).

A Ertew says, to fix things  non-conductive normal - or double sided - duct tape is better.
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axel9546
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« Reply #33 on: June 19, 2017, 02:22:58 PM »

Aluminium (or copper) tape, is used most often to  try and build some RF shielding in LCD-Over-Intuos builds, more than anything else. In that use, anyway, it is often a good idea to use it to enclose some non-conductive plastic bag (or some construction akin to it).

A Ertew says, to fix things  non-conductive normal - or double sided - duct tape is better.
Hello so i just put the converter board and connect all.
The pen seem to not follow the cursor in some point, and in all the screen area is not calibrated even if i try to calibrate.
The screen gets really hot. Any ideas??
All' things work well but i have to put something like a fan to Cool the area

What this mean?
« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 11:14:21 PM by axel9546 » Logged
DaBotz
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« Reply #34 on: June 19, 2017, 11:20:14 PM »

A 15.6" is a 16:9 LCD which is wider than the active area of an Intuos 4 L, yet shorter than it is... it is a particularly complex situation because you need to calibrate the Table AND the projection on the screen.

My biggest builds are in the same situation, so this may help you...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRXBb_hafAY

To build the thing, you can try to place it so that cursor and pen coincide at the centre, then work on one dimension (for example, height, by reducing the tablet active area), then the other (width, you'll have to reduce the projection on screen), then again on the first...

I suggest to place things so that they touch on the middle is, just to help you getting started.

You may revise the build to leave what little active area is free all on one side (because, if you have a screen that is placed where the projection of that "excess" area is, the pen will be able to reach it) but, as you are getting sizes, let it for after (once you got how to calibrate the build - fist time took me 30 minutes, now I do it in a couple of minutes or so).

I usually leave "all on top" -  I keep a small screen above my main drawing machine, where I leave VLC playing some series... I have enough "excess pen area" to go up and click the controls and the seek bar of VLC at full screen.

The most important thing, anyway, is to have screen and digitizer as parallel as possible...

As for the warmth, it is a common problem...If the screen has the LCD strip on only one side, you may decide to leave it in a position that is less bothering;

The Glass is a less than spectacular heat transmitter, so it may help a little, as it could help having an heat-sink of some kind - a plate touching the LCD at/under/around the LED strip, for example... as heat-sink, a simple tape is probably not enough, and something thicker should be better.

Some people also adds little fans ( a computer fan uses the same 12 V most controller boards eat) in an effort to have an air flux to cool things.

Personally, I do not like the added noise, so I avoid them (though, for my UBiQ 2 it would be  - maybe - better to add one, maybe heat-activated)

The cursor does not follow the pen in some spots... if the pen is lost on a vertical band, it may means that there is an inductive coil in the T-Con board at the bottom of the LCD.

Try to raise (carefully! ) the board a bit away from the Intuos (as the ribbons glued to it  and the LCD are the most delicate thing and impossible to fix, getting it more than a couple of cm away - and 45ยบ inclined on the horizontal - is going to be impossible, but that much may be more than enough) .

If you see improvements, with the board "inclined away", then it is probable that building an RF cage enclosing that board could help things.

In case I suggest to build such cage as wide as the area occupied by the vertical antenna lines (which, by the way, are what measures the horizontal  - x axis -position ), not just enough to enclose the board (which is usually quite some cm less).

(I suspect that the fact I did limit mines just to that is the reason why all my builds - that needed that cage - "fritz" at the two vertical borders... The cage acts as a torus antenna, whose field bend in a emi-sphere at the extremes, and the inclined-horizontal field lines there couples with the vertical antennas, making difficult to read the X-Axis position).
« Last Edit: June 20, 2017, 12:08:42 AM by DaBotz » Logged

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axel9546
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« Reply #35 on: June 19, 2017, 11:28:06 PM »

A 15.6" is a 16:9 LCD which is wider thasn the active area, yet shorter than it... it is a particularly complex situation because you need to calibrate the Table AND the proyection on the screen.

My biggest builds are in the same situation, so this may help you...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRXBb_hafAY

To build the thing, you can try to place it so that cursor and pen coincide at the centre, then work up on one dimension (for example, height, by reducing the tablet active area), then the other (width, you'll have to reduce the projection on screen), then again on the height...

Place things so that they touch on the middle is, just to help you get started.

You may revise the build to leave what little active area is free all on one side (because, if you have a screen that is placed where the projection of that "excess" area is, the pen will be able to reach it) but, as you are getting sizes, let it for after (once you got how to calibrate the build - fist time took me 30 minutes, now I do it in a couple of minutes or so).

I usually leave "all on top" -  I keep a small screen above my main drawing machine, where I leave VLC playing some series... I have enough "excess pen area" to go up and click the controls and the seek bar of VLC at full screen.

 
Okay in trying to do this! Smiley.
Also i have to see If there is some jitter i Will Say u If there is.
The main thing its that the LCD and the converter board gets really hot .. Its normal??
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DaBotz
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« Reply #36 on: June 20, 2017, 12:22:03 AM »

For the LCD, it depends on the kind of modifications you had to do to it to let the pens signal go through.

If you had to eliminate stuff that could act as an heat-sink, it's actual temperature is probably higher than the original (and optimal), so adding an heat-sink for the led strip could be a good idea.

If it is hot the TCon-Board... are you sure the Converter board is supplying the right voltage to the panel?

On the side of the converter board, I  am a bit more dubious... but, then again, I never checked the temperature of the controller boards in my builds (of the 5, three were actual desktop monitors, so compatibility among the various parts was a given).

I never noticed them to get "very hot" - using  thermometer to get a temperature could give some hard facts on which guess - , though.
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axel9546
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« Reply #37 on: June 20, 2017, 08:22:09 AM »

For the LCD, it depends on the kind of modifications you had to do to it to let the pens signal go through.

If you had to eliminate stuff that could act as an heat-sink, it's actual temperature is probably higher than the original (and optimal), so adding an heat-sink for the led strip could be a good idea.

If it is hot the TCon-Board... are you sure the Converter board is supplying the right voltage to the panel?

On the side of the converter board, I  am a bit more dubious... but, then again, I never checked the temperature of the controller boards in my builds (of the 5, three were actual desktop monitors, so compatibility among the various parts was a given).

I never noticed them to get "very hot" - using  thermometer to get a temperature could give some hard facts on which guess - , though.

Okay i Will try for anche heatsink.Anyway in stuck to calibration. Tried 3h or calibration and Pen at the center of the LCD its okay, but when i move to the right or left, not follow well the Pen
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DaBotz
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« Reply #38 on: June 21, 2017, 12:51:32 PM »

Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.


Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/676vr2qyxeuhab2/simtiq_planner.html?dl=1 ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )



« Last Edit: June 21, 2017, 01:09:00 PM by DaBotz » Logged

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axel9546
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« Reply #39 on: July 20, 2017, 10:11:38 AM »

Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.


Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/676vr2qyxeuhab2/simtiq_planner.html?dl=1 ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )




Hello Can u help me? Why when i point the Pen on the screen in some point i have this problem https://streamable.com/j6ksc (its a video)
« Last Edit: July 20, 2017, 10:28:46 AM by axel9546 » Logged
DaBotz
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« Reply #40 on: July 21, 2017, 01:02:40 AM »

Is it just a point, or a whole vertical band?

If it is a point, the source of the noise probably is the circuitry inside the LCD, and little can be done aside trying to see if changing the refresh rate does ameliorate it.

If it is a vertical band in which you have horizontal jitter, then the culprit is inside the t-con board (possibly, an inductance - a coil; my last build has one, three cm from the right border of the t-con, and it makes for horrible jitter and false clicks) and you can try to shield it, building an RF cage all around the T-Con board.

(if possible, extends its width so that the margins of the cage lay beyond the limits of the tablet active area... I suspect that where the cage ends, the EM field bends and it "couples" with the digitizer antennas, so going wider could help avoid my meddlesome "vertical border crazies")
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jedikalimero
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« Reply #41 on: October 26, 2017, 01:58:11 PM »

the active area (at least on my intuos 3) is the area that is dark gray on your image. idk what the white marks are for but they are not the hard marks where the active area ends but on the intuos pen end touch my brother got, the active area is a bit bigger than the marks but doesn't extend all the way to the edge of the tablet.
I can't really say anything about the intuos 5 but I'd guess that the active area (aka the area where the pen works) is a bit bigger than the markings but not the whole dark gray area and definitely not the (light-gray) case.


In the Intuos 5 and pro, the White marks (they are really LED lights) define the active area. The pen will not work beyond this area. The Dark grey area is bigger than the active area because this way your pen will not bump when you reach the border of the active area. This was some of a problem in Intuos 4 and older. It is an unpleasant sensation and erodes the nib faster if you frequently reach the borders and bump between the drawing surface and the case.

When placing an LCD screen over the tablet, the pen will still be limited to the active area. It will not extend magically beyond that, of course. There is a calculator somewhere in the forum that allows to compare Intuos models and typical LCD screen sizes and see graphically which one will fit which each other.
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