dropped 21UX 2nd gen not responding to stylus.

[jedikalimero]

UPDATE:

I went the easy way and bought in ebay the inners of another Cintiq. It was the LCD and sensor cage with the 3 motherboards on it, so it was very simple to remove my faulty motherboard and replace it with the working one. Cintiq repaired except for one terrible mistake. While I was cleaning the glass of the front case in order to put the LCD in place again, I BROKE IT!!!

I was not doing any substantial pressure but it was enough to crack the glass. This glass is a 1mm thick glass with an anti-glare filter glued at the back. The filter is not at the front of the glass where you put the stylus but at the back, between the LCD screen and the glass. I think this filter also acted as a reinforcement of the glass, avoiding it to break when pressed from the outside, but when pressed from the inside (that's what I did) it simply cracked.

So now I have a working Cintiq but with a broken glass. 

So what I want to ask you is what would you do?

I was thinking about replacing the glass with an acrylic sheet, more flexible but more prone to scratches, but I could also buy a screen protector to cover it and protect if from scratches, but I can't find a 1 mm sheet of 39 x 48.3 cm. The same goes for the plastic used to frame water paint pictures (2 mm and expensive) or glass (3 mm)

[DaBotz]

You can try to see if there is polycarbonate available in your area, or going for some 2 mm thick glass.

If you opt for glass, you'll have to be careful because usually, in that thickness you can't usually find it tempered... at the appearance of any crack whatsoever, you'll have to replace it, as cracks -no matter how small on a border - always expand in unpredictable ways, in non-tempered glass.

The polycarbonate can be much more expensive than glass (by a factor 15 at least, as it costs more than acrylic - and that already costs almost ten times glass) , but it can also be much clearer and almost as resistant.  Scratch resistance would also be good, much better than acrylic, though adding a screen-protector would still be a good idea, as it would also give you some texture.

Personally I love to draw on glass - I used to place a glass plate even over my first tablet, a Graphire 4"x5" - but that is a perversion of mines.  

[jedikalimero]

I have the glass to replace the one I broke. It is 2mm matt glass. So to hide the metal edges of the LCD and double-sided tape, I tried to paint the black border as in the original glass, but things did not work as I thought. I spray painted it on the inside but the paint does not stick well to the glass and it "peels". Obviously, if I stick this to the double-sided tape, what will stick is not the glass but the paint that will come off and the glass will be loose.
The original glass was painted black at the edge but this paint work does not peel off. You'd have to scratch it with a cutter for it to come out and still it's fucking hard. The one I sprayed comes out just by thumb rubbing it.
Anybody knows of another technique that I could try?
 I made the Wacom logo hand painted with a silver Sharpie in the inside side and then sprayed the black paint
Over it. It looks so great it is a pity all this effort is worthless

[DaBotz]

Glass is a slippery material.

Unless you get it etched in the areas you need to paint, or have a specific paint, the tendency to peel off is to be expected. 

(By the way, for both things, the easiest way to do it is going to a local glass shop and ask them - they likely have the right paint and can even etch the borders to make it stick better, if necessary... )
 

[jedikalimero]

Unless you get it etched in the areas you need to paint, or have a specific paint, the tendency to peel off is to be expected. 

Yes, but the original glass had the border painted in black and it doesn't peels off at all. As I said, you need to scratch hard with an exacto knife or similar to remove it and even so, it is not easy to remove.

[procersapientiae]

Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.

[jedikalimero]

Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.

Hi,

I finally obtained the internals of another Cintiq so I removed the not working screen and replaced it with the working one keeping the case and the manual controls boards (power button, expresskeys and image control). The new screen came with the three back boards included so I have them for spares now.

The old screen had four or five stress marks in the LCD after the accident that appeared as faint dark spots of the size of a fingerprint so I guess it is of no use for you. Also, it is heavy and would risen postage costs a lot. So I could send you the working CCFL Driver board, the working Display Controller Board and the defective Cintiq mainboard.

 Apart from that it is all screws, white plastic covers of the boards, cables connecting the boards, the metal frame shielding the LCD, the digitizer sheet behind the LCD, the CCFL tubes and all the light diffusion layers between the LCD and the digitizer sheet. Oh, and also the LCD motherboard that is composed of two pieces but I can't remember now if it is soldered to the LCD flat ribbon cables or uses connectors.

If you want anything of this, please send me a message. I live in Canary Islands, Spain, so I have to post from here.