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Author Topic: enixidfrag's - "exile" Build Log  (Read 6108 times)
enixidfrag
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« on: October 18, 2007, 12:28:34 AM »

Ok so i'm going to be buying my parts fairly soon hopefully. and i was wondering what you all thought? Please any and all insight especially if you have better info about a screen protector Cheesy

To Build 22" Intous3 Cintiq

Polycarbonate 18 x 24 x 1/16: $51.81 inc. shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQitemZ300160482505QQcmdZViewItem

X2GEN MW22R Black 22": $254.58 inc. shipping

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824222030

Intuos3 12x19: $749.95

http://direct.wacom.com/stores/5/Intuos3_12x19_P776C79.cfm

Total = $1056.34

or


To build 15" Intuos3 Cintiq

Polycarbonate 18 x 24 x 1/16: $51.81 inc. shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQitemZ300160482505QQcmdZViewItem

DELL 1503FP 15": $71.11 inc. shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/DELL-1503FP-15-INCH-BLACK-LCD-MONITOR-1503-FP_W0QQitemZ170159959233QQihZ007QQcategoryZ74932QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Intuos3 9x12: $449.95
http://direct.wacom.com/stores/5/Intuos3_9x12_P773C77.cfm

Total = $572.87
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AndreZX
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« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2007, 01:28:13 AM »

Where do you live? You can find the polycarbonate for a lot cheaper at Home Depot or another similar stores. I've actually also found that acrylic is cheaper, harder, resists scratches better, and blocks less light than Polycarbonate does. Polycarbonate is only better for impact-resistance, so unless you're going to be hitting this with hammers, the acrylic is probably a better bet.

I'd be really reluctant to buy all new parts for the first time around with one of these, as $1,000 is pretty steep to risk on a first try. What I'm doing is buying cheap used parts to build a simple small one (12x12 digitizer II and 1503fp) to get the hang of it, and then I'm going to go all out and build a big one, with the same x2gen 22" monitor that you're looking at, actually.

Of course, if you're confident in your abilities, the 22" project will be much, MUCH better to draw/work on than the 15" with the 1503fp screen. And also, if you go ahead and get the x2gen monitor first, I'll just wait and see how you make out with it.  Grin
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JBuRRkE
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« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2007, 02:16:51 AM »

wow! looks like you have a ton of money to spend Grin

like andre said, most of us try our best to buy the cheapest parts we can find.. there is a chance you can break somethin in the process (most of us learn the hard way Tongue ) so usually a cheap model is built first to ensure we understand the process..

if you have the money, go for it!
otherwise you can save a lot of money by doing a little shopping around..

btw..
like andre said that polycarbonate is wayy to expensive.. you could get a different type of material for tons cheaper, and even cut to the right size with holes drilled allready for you! look around at local hardware stores to see if they offer any other kinds of protection at a much lower cost Cheesy
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Drewid
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« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2007, 06:25:41 AM »

I'd agree about the monitor.   Most people seem to have to kill one to get a build done. They are very very fragile inside.
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enixidfrag
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« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2007, 07:03:19 AM »

i actualy should be ok about the monitor piece (i hope lol) i mean i do this type of stuff ALOT you kknow like mods and what not so i'm hoping i should be ok

but yeah whats the name of the best material for when i go to hardware store?

also about to doing cheaper one i might do a cheaper one as well if i can get ahold of digitilizer for a fair price that is ROFL (going to ask my college teacher tommarow see if turbine has any old ones or something like that maybe Wink )
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AndreZX
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« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2007, 01:46:35 PM »

It's just called acrylic sheet, but it goes by a lot of brand names. Plexiglas is the most common. It also goes by Limacryl, R-Cast, Perspex, Plazcryl, Acrylex, Acrylite, Acrylplast, Altuglas, and Polycast (according to wikipedia), but if you ask for Plexiglas they'll know exactly what you mean.
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enixidfrag
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« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2007, 04:48:07 PM »

ok now plexiglass i know what your talking bout Cheesy

cant rembember if home depot has it or not thouigh lol
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AndreZX
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« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2007, 08:36:37 PM »

Haha..

I don't know about where you live, but the Home Depots in my area (new jersey) stock it. That's where I got the pieces I did my scratch-resistance tests with.
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enixidfrag
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« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2007, 08:43:55 PM »

they got one in shrewsbury mass thats the closest one i think  im not a big fan of home depot i liked HQ (i think thats what it was called) better Tongue

but yea i'm gonna check maybe monday i need some other stiff anyway for some other projects Cheesy

hey you know if they have aluminum piping thats shapped kinda like a hockey stick?
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AndreZX
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« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2007, 12:07:00 AM »

Check out electrical conduit pipe. It's either steel or aluminum (I'm pretty sure it's aluminum) and you can get cheap benders for it that would let you bend it into hockey stick shape.
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gilstudios
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« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2007, 02:53:31 AM »

Interestingly enough your I arrived at your 22" design specs before reading your log.  I purchased parts and found that the x2gen 22" monitor appears to be a good canidate aside from one little catch.  In the top left corner there appears about a 1inch square "dead" spot causing false clicks.  I've tried everything I can think of to shield but to no avail.  The rest of the screen is jitter free run at full resolution.  I may need to obtain a gaussometer to track down the exact source of the magnetic interference, unless anyone else has run into this.  I've read the entire "jitter" sections on these forums but my experience appears to be unique in terms of the specific location and hardware specs. FYI I am using the LCD glass directly on top of the tablet sensor with a thin sheet of cellophane to prevent shorting, no lights and it goes away with the LCD powered off.
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AndreZX
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« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2007, 02:33:27 PM »

@ gilstudios, what type of Wacom are you using? Tanassi had trouble with his 12x18 project too— he had interference issues with his Intuos, but not his Digitizer II pad. Maybe that could be it?

And it's great news to hear that that monitor works well except for that one snag. I think I may order one tonight, if that's the case. Is yours the MW22R? And just as a test, can you just lift the mainboard away from the whole rig  with your hand to see if it makes a difference? I was getting dead spots on my 15", even when insulated, and when I lifted that board up 2 inches, all of the dropouts disappeared.

Cheers, and thanks for the feedback.

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